INTRODUCTION

Thank you for buying a swimming pool from North West Wholesale.

Many new ideas have been developed to give the DO-IT-YOURSELFER a pool at a very low cost and simplified construction.

There will be links to PDF documents in this manual and in other correspondence with our company.    PDF is the universal electronic document format.    It is used by Governments and large corporations to transmit documents in their original format.   If you do not have the Adobe reader and if you would like a copy you can download it (free of charge) at http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/alternate.html 

Please read your instructions and view the video thoroughly and IN ENTIRETY in order to get an overall picture of what is required. This will help you avoid potential mistakes. Check to ensure your existing services are adequate. (e.g. electricity and water).  This manual is updated from time to time so it would be best to print a copy just prior to starting to build your swimming pool.   

The video shows generally how a swimming pool installation should be done.    The installation of accessories like lights, inlets, skimmers, etc., change over a period of time.   Where there is any conflict between the manufacturer, this manual and the video, the manufacturers installation recommendations shall be considered the primary procedure to follow.   Secondly this manual and finally the video.   

The manual and the video will have slight variations in some of the installation procedures as there is more than one way to accomplish a task so in some cases we offer alternatives.   We have have done this on purpose to give you more options.   The video will have tips that are not in this manual so ensure you review both.

PRELIMINARIES

BUILDING BY-LAWS

Check with local authorities for necessary permits, fence requirements, distance from the edge of your property, filter shed, building permit, etc..

Contact Hydro, Telephone Company, Cable T.V., Gas Company and Public Utilities Commission to see if you can dig in your yard.

Before you dig, you should consider the following:

1. Ensure you have chosen the proper sized pool.
2. Check with your home owners association or subdivision restrictions regarding pools.
3. Check for underground utilities before you dig.
4. Check fencing requirements.
5. Ensure  the location meets local building codes.
6. Position the pool to obtain maximum sun.
7. Pool site should be convenient to changing facilities, the home, recreation areas or proposed filter house location.
8. Pool should be located to leave room for the structure of a pool enclosure, if required at a later date.
9. Also, thought should be given at this time to the placement of skimmer, inlets, and returns, so that the prevailing winds will help your pool filter system work most efficiently. (See Fig.1) Another factor to consider in placing the pool is that your piping to and from the filter should be kept as short as possible (within 10' - 20' from pool's edge), especially the section from the skimmer.  The pump and filter should be no higher than six feet above the water level.   Ideally the pump and filter should be about 1' above the pool's water level (about 6" above the coping).

Here are a few safety tips and things to think about when designing your pool.

Design pool to ensure bathers have plenty of room to walk around lounge chairs, slides, diving boards, planters, etc.

If you are putting rockery in your pool area ensure there are no sharp edges and that the rocks are not placed in such a way that they can be used as diving platforms.

Ensure the materials that you use for your deck area are not slippery when wet. 

Make sure there is sufficient lighting to light up the pool area at night so there will be no hidden dangers when walking around the pool.  A pool light is not sufficient for this.

Make sure ground fixtures are placed in a way to avoid tripping hazards. 

If you are installing a lap pool the lights should be installed on the side of the pool to avoid having to swim towards the light. 

If you have both pool and spa lights they should be on the same switch so that they light up simultaneously to reduce the darkened areas in the pool.

The dig dimensions comply with the National Spa and Pool Institute suggested minimum standards for residential Type I or Type II pools.   WARNING -  DO NOT DIVE IN SHALLOW END.  If diving boards or slides are used with these pools please consult the manufacturer's instructions prior to installing the diving boards or slides.

SELECTING THE SITE

In selecting the site for your pool, choose an open, sunny area, with no underground pipes or wires and away from septic tanks, septic fields, etc..  Take advantage of any natural banks or slopes to reduce the amount of excavation necessary for the pool and have a place to deposit excavated material.

FIG. 1.

TWO EXAMPLES OF PLACING INLETS AND SKIMMER PANELS

1.  The skimmer should always be placed on the long wall of the pool, with the prevailing
      winds blowing into the skimmer.

2.  If you are building a hopper pool, locate the skimmer in the deep end of the pool, past the 
     break point.

3.  Ensure the skimmer panel will be clear of the wall-mounted safety rope anchors.

4.  Locate returns on walls opposite the skimmer, to push surface debris towards the skimmer.

NOTE:  If you are installing an AquaGenie skimmer place the skimmer in the middle of the long wall.   If your pool is 20 x 40 or larger, or a Square L or a Lazy L, two AquaGenie's will be required.  If you are installing 2 AquaGenie skimmers on a rectangle pool install them on the same wall, an equal distance from each side and from each other.    There is a PDF document to show how to locate the AquaGenie at http://www.northwestwholesale.com/pdf/AquaGenie-locations.pdf    More information can be found on the AquaGenie at http://www.northwestwholesale.com/aqua-genie.asp 

FIG. 2.

IT MAY BE NECESSARY FOR SOME FILL TO BE HAULED AWAY.

It is best to find your excavating contractor well in advance of starting the pool in order to co-ordinate his schedule with yours and to allow him to evaluate the site for accessibility. 

PHASE 1 LAYOUT AND EXCAVATION

NOTE:    ALWAYS LAY OUT THE POOL EXCAVATION THE DAY BEFORE TO ENSURE THAT YOU ARE READY FOR THE EXCAVATOR.

Be sure the pool is located so that surface water drains away from pool, not towards it. Also establish height of pool to ensure proper drainage. Once again, it is better for filter equipment to be located as near the pool as possible.

You may want to enlist the help of friends, neighbors, or relatives, in the assembly of your pool, but he or she need not be skilled workers because such talents are not essential in the simple, commonsense construction.

Using swim area dimensions of your pool, drive one stake at each corner. Now stand back, looking at your future pool site to be sure that it is placed where you want it to be.

The dimensions of the pool are made 2 - 3' greater on each side (see Fig.3) that is: a 16' x 32' pool has an excavation size of 20' x 36'.   Three feet is recommended to give you more room to work.   Wooden stakes or re-bar can used as markers, one stake at each corner to outline location. See Fig.4.

FIG. 3. EXPLANATION OF EXTRA 2' EXCAVATION

FIG. 4

LAYOUT PROCEDURE

Lay out line 2 and diagonal A (installing a rectangle), drive a stake where they meet. This can be done by striking an arc on the ground (white chalk powder) using two tape-measures.

Lay out line 3 and diagonal B, drive a stake where they meet.

Check line 4, for length. Check all lines for correct size according to chart. Diagonal lines must be equal.

Tie a string around the four stakes low to the ground, forming the proper size of rectangular shape that is two feet larger each way according to the chart in Fig.4.

Holding a can of spray paint or household flour low to the ground (say 6" above the string) spray the ground  where the string is so that you have a painted rectangle in your yard.

Measure in 2 feet from your string on line 1 and similarly paint a parallel line, the same with lines 2, 3, and 4. You should now have two white rectangles painted on the ground, one within the other. The inner rectangle should measure the actual size of your pool.

One of the potential problems that can cause extra time in digging a pool is re-establishing the hopper and shallow end break after the first three and a half feet of the excavation is complete, or once the excavation is complete and you are ready to start erecting the walls.   Use the following method if installing a rectangle or a shaped pool.   

In the video we show establishing the hopper and shallow end break using one method.  As well, the method below can be used to establish the hopper and shallow end break and may work better in your situation.

Put two stakes in the ground no less than 15' apart and about 3 - 5 feet away from the pool excavation.   Ensure that these stakes are located in a place where the excavator will not drive over them.   As well, make sure no back fill will be placed between the stakes and the pool.   Take 2 tape measures and measure the distance from each stake to the points in the hopper, shallow end break and any other point that you will want to re-establish once the excavation has started.   Mark these measurements on a plan.

EXCAVATION

Shape the deep end carefully, over-excavating  3" to 4" to allow for concrete/sand/vermiculite bottom. Try to have the hopper bottom finished to the diagram dimensions or no more than 1/2" deeper.  The liner is designed to fit your pool dimensions.   The liner can stretch even if you are out by more than an inch but if you happen to have a tile border liner circles may look like ovals.

If an inwall step is to be installed dig about 3' extra (6' total) where the step is to be installed to leave room to work with the step.

If a high water table is expected the deep end should be dug first to determine the height of the water.   If severe, the pool may have to be raised to avoid troublesome underground water or a sump hole may be required.   Consider delaying ordering the liner if you suspect you have a high water table.

Ground water is the term used for the water table.   If you should encounter ground water while digging the hopper, do not panic.   Simply follow these simple recommendations:

1.  Over dig just the bottom of the hopper by 1' to 2'.
2.  Put a 5-gallon pail in the middle of the hopper. 
3.  Use pea size rock to bring the hopper back to grade.   If there is an excessive amount
     of water you can run a big O-drain around the outside of the hopper and into the pail.
4.  Run a plumbing line from the pail in the hopper to near the filter.
5.  Pump out the water in the hopper while finishing the pool until the liner has been 
     dropped and the pool is full of water.
6.  When installation is complete, cap the plumbing line, leaving it available for use 
      in the future, should the liner need to be replaced.
7.  Once the pool is filled with water the water pressure should keep the water from 
     floating the liner. 

An excavator or Drott is the best equipment with which to excavate your pool. Generally the larger the machine the easier it is to excavate the pool.   Have the operator of the excavator study the drawings of your particular size pool. Make sure he/she understands the tolerances for the pool walls and inside finish. An accurate job will simplify your installation.

During the period of excavation, a person  with a shovel should work in the hole (not when excavator is working), grading and making periodic checks on all measurements to ensure accuracy and eliminate unnecessary hand digging later. Depth may be checked by transit or measuring from a cord tied between the grade stakes.

FIG. 6

WARNING:

Make sure excavator doesn't under-excavate or over-excavate the job.

The closer to the dimensions the operator keeps, the more correct the shape of the hole, and the less hand labor you will have to do later.

Once again, careful checking with a transit, hand trimming and raking will speed up the excavation and make it less costly for you and less work in the long run.    Establish points outside of the excavation and where there will not be any excavated soil piled, so when the initial part of the pool is dug you will have references to re-establish the hopper and depth of the pool.   Study Fig.6.

PHASE 2 - PANEL ASSEMBLY

Take a black marking pencil, chalk line or crayon and mark each panel along its entire length 2" from the bottom. Since the sections are 42" high, this line will measure the finished pool depth of 40" once the walls are in place and pool bottom finished. Be sure not to go above this line when cement, sand or vermiculite is later poured in the bottom or the pool will be too shallow for the liner to fit.

Under NO circumstances should the steel walls be placed on recently disturbed ground. A level foundation of undisturbed earth should be provided where the wall sections will be installed.

Lay the steel panels on the grass, around the pool in the order you chose in Fig.1.  Place skimmer, inlet and light panels in their correct order around the pool.    Normally the welded side of the panel goes up.  The panels are reversible.   

If steps are present, determine their location before starting panel assembly.  Place the steps in the shallow end so when you enter the pool from the steps you step on to the flat surface of the shallow end (not partially on the shallow end break).   Brace the step to the proper height so that the top of the step is level with the top of the coping.   Clamp the steps to the steel panels using C clamps or vise grips.   Once the steps are positioned correctly drill the holes that will be used to bolt the steps to the panels.   We supply step levelers but recommend supporting the bottom of the steps with concrete or concrete blocks.  Ensure you do not have an abrasive material against the bottom of the steps.   Consult the manufacturer's recommendations for the installation of the steps.

As the final hand trimming is being done, the wall panels may be lowered into the working border and leaned against the side of the excavation.   One option to to lay a concrete footing for the panels to sit on.     If you would like to make this footing (optional), here is a chart that tells you approximately how many yards of concrete you will need for your pool's footing.

NOTE: Take a sight through a transit or use the longest spirit level available to be sure the concrete will be level at the depth you want.

The footings are framed with 2 x 4's, standing on edge, and the footing is made approximately 1' wide. (See Fig.7).

The strings that were used as pool outlines should be placed between the corner stakes (as in Fig.6) and will now guide the positioning and square placement of the footings or wall sections. If not laying a footing,  patio stones can be used at each panel joint.   Place pegs to help position the bottom of each panel along a straight line so the panels won't slip in toward the pool at the bottom.    The 2" x 4" framing should be dug down 4", otherwise your pool height will be 4" higher than you expected.

FIG.7.

When you are ready for the panels, put the stairs in place (if applicable) and start at any corner, going both ways (this way the panels will be self supporting). The panels can now be bolted together as you go. An end view of the panel can be seen in Fig.7.  When assembling the panels start at a corner and work in two directions.

Note:  The rectangle's top and bottom lips are  5" and the shapes have a  5" top lip and a 3 1/2" bottom lip.

If you aren't using a footing, patio stones should be dug into the ground at each panel joint to give the panels a level footing to sit on.   We recommend using a patio stone at each joint.  Shoot each patio stone with a transit level to ensure they are they are at the correct height.   Make sure each patio stone is level.    Shave the high spots under the blocks.

Ensure the panels are lined up to one another, flush on the inside and top of the pool.   Stabilize each brace to ensure they do not move when concrete is poured.  ( Normally one A brace at each joint).  If you are using a deck support system there is a brace at each joint and one in the middle of the panel if the panel is 6' or greater.

If you are going to install a concrete deck there are two options for deck support.   You can use our deck bracing system or sonar tubes.   The sonar tubes are supplied by concrete companies.   To get the deck support using the sonar tubes you need to place these tubes about every 4' around the pool.   Pour concrete into the tubes and they will provide the support on the outside edge of the deck.

The "A" frames fit together as in Fig. 8.

Take a sight through the transit as each panel is joined to see that the level of the pool is maintained. If no transit is used maintain the level by checking with the longest spirit level available. Even if you have a concrete footing check the level of your panels. 

After steel panels are assembled, square the pool by obtaining equal diagonal measurements from outside corner to outside opposite corner of the pool. Check the level again. 

The "A" frames or Deck braces can have a cord tied around them and staked back for squaring purposes as in Fig. 8, until cement is poured.    Stabilize each brace to ensure they do not move when concrete is poured.   Be sure to add A frame assemblies as each panel is added.   Never tighten bolts until the inside surfaces are flush.   For deck brace system assembly cut and paste this link into your browser.

Once you are positive your panels are square and level, fix the position by driving a steel re-bar through one hole in the base of an end section of the panel, or concrete spikes into the concrete footing.   Staking rods are driven down to within 3" or 4" from the end.    One stake  is required at each panel joint.  Put the stake into either panel at the joint.

Place framing boards in the hopper base to form the bottom of the deep end. Be sure the tops of these boards and drain will be at the finished bottom depth.   Pour concrete to 2" below the top of these boards (see video).

The purpose of a main drain in a liner pool is to aid re-circulation of the water in your pool.   It is hooked into the suction side of you pump.    It should be installed in the middle of the hopper at the lowest part of the pool.   Cover the entire top of the main drain, screw holes and entire top outside perimeter with duct tape to ensure dirt does not get into the main drain during bottom preparation.

Dig a trench up through the side of the hopper to accommodate the main drain plumbing line (a main drain is not required with an AquaGenie).   Run the pipe from the main drain, up the side of the hopper, under the wall and then to the pump house.   

When pouring the concrete for the hopper bottom the main drain may tend to float in the concrete.   Make sure it does not rise above the finished bottom depth.  Wet and tamp all loose earth in the bottom of pool.   Pour the concrete 2" below the top of the hopper form.   The top of the hopper form should be at the level that will be the finished grade of the pool hopper.

If you are using an AquaGenie it is not necessary to install a main drain.  

Again re-check walls and corners for level, alignment, and squareness.  Once concrete is poured adjustments will be impossible.

For approximate concrete required see chart below.

Smooth the concrete so it will make a better surface for running the pool plumbing.

FIG. 10.

Pour  6" to 8" of concrete on the working border of pool, covering the remaining steel stakes at the base of the panels, and the footing if you used one.    A hole of almost 2 sq. ft. by approximately 1 ft. deep should be dug to accommodate the end of each "A" frame. The "A" frames are covered with approximately one  wheelbarrow full of concrete each and the anchor rods are re-inserted into the hole in the "A" frame.   This can be done at the same time you pour the concrete border.

CAUTION:  Be very careful when you pour the concrete border below that you do not knock the wall out of alignment.  Concrete is very heavy so be cautious when placing the concrete ring around the pool.   Be sure when pouring concrete that any large openings under the pool walls are filled.

Once the walls are up, check the depth in various sections of the pool bottom and hopper in relation to the top of the walls. If the excavating has been done carefully, the pool floor should be very near the exact depth and only a small amount of hand trimming will be necessary. 

As mentioned before, the depths may be made 1/2" deeper than required but if your excavation and construction are accurate there is no need to do this. The final sizing of the pool bottom governs the smooth future appearance of the liner in the finished pool. In order to establish your hopper grades, first accurately locate the bottom plate of the pool. Place four stakes, one at each corner of the hopper base and set a string outline around these stakes at the proper depth for the pool hopper.

String guides can now be run to outline the four sloping corners of the hopper, from the base of the panels to the hopper framing boards. 

Check pool bottom before drain installation to ensure the drain is set at the correct depth. 

To ensure the plastic pipe does not leak at the threads, wrap teflon tape on the threads of the adapter and screw into the fitting, then put some plastic joint compound (optional) on the other end of the adaptor. 

If you are using poly pipe slip two stainless steel clamps (use clamps with stainless steel or CAD heads) over the end of the plastic pipe  with the tightening screws of the clamp on opposite sides of the pipe.  Push the plastic pipe over the serrated end of the adapter until it is well in place. Tighten the clamps about ¼" from the end of the pipe and ¼" apart.   (See Fig.11).   If it is cold and difficult to insert fittings, you can heat the pipe with warm water to make it more pliable before clamping. 

Note: In cold weather areas if the frost goes below the footings of the wall (3 ½') it will be necessary to support the pipe coming from the fittings. e.g. install a 90 degree elbow and run the pipe to the concrete footing below - this will give the inlet support and prevent the pipe from breaking the inlet. 

FIG. 11.

If installing fiber optic lens assemblies they should be cut prior to starting the bottom finishing as the metal filings could cause rust spots on the liner if completed after the bottom was finished.    The  lens assemblies should be placed in the long wall facing away from the patio area.   Run a 1 ½" conduit/pipe from each lens assembly to the location where the illuminator will be located.  The illuminator can be outdoors.    Try place the illuminator closer to the lens assemblies as it is  less expensive to move the illuminator than to pay for the underwater cable.   In the pool, mount the lens assembles 6" – 9" below the water line.  In the spa, mount the lens assembly in the foot well.   Follow the installation instructions in the manufacturers manual.    The illuminator should be at least 10' away from the pool.

If installing a safety line the anchors for the safety line should be installed 2" from the top of the wall.

FILTER:

Attach hose from skimmer to pump (see plumbing diagrams).    Hose from inlets should also come up through the floor of your filter house. (See Fig.11).    If you have a sand filter fill the filter tank with silica sand if using a sand filter.

IMPORTANT: Wire the pump motor with the proper amount of electricity.   A common mistake is to wire the motor incorrectly.  In-ground pumps are normally wired for 220 volts.

Filter and all plumbing should be completed and ready for operation before liner installation. Even if the filter house is not built the filter can be connected. The filter should be working before the chemicals are put into the water.

OXIDIZER:

When installing an Oxidizer a stand pipe is used in a new installation as per the manual.   It will not be necessary to install a check valve.   If a stand pipe is not used then it is necessary to install the check valve.  Normally the check valve is used when an Oxidizer is installed on an existing pool.

Section 4  SHAPING, FINISHING AND BACKFILLING

There are four types of pool bottoms that are typically used:

l.  Sand (thoroughly-washed mason sand - not recommended - last choice).
2. Sand (thoroughly-washed mason sand) and cement (dry mix 7 - 1) - second last choice.
3. Grout/Mortar mix - washed sand (no stones) 3500 psi very heavy slump.   Can be obtained from your local cement company.
4. Vermiculite (which goes by various brand names) (see below).

You can get information on pool pad by Grace Bros. (CPBA) at http://www.graceconstruction.com/vermiculite/verm_contact.html   They can advise you of suppliers in your area.   As well, you can call Tim DeJarnette at 1-800-982-8009.  They have a product called Pool Krete.  Mention North West Wholesale.  Their website is www.strongseal.com    As well, check with local contractors for information on obtaining the product.

A dry cement/sand mixture can be used for the bottom and the ground moisture will eventually make the mixture hard.  We do not recommend using sand only mixture or a dry mix of sand and cement for the bottom of the pool.  We recommend the Vermiculite or a Mortar/Grout mix mentioned previously.

LIGHT:

Check to see what is required by local electrical codes for an underwater light.   The light can be purchased with or without a conduit.  If the light is purchased without a conduit check you local building codes to see if a PVC conduit can be used.    When you use PVC as a conduit ensure that all the light components are bonded.   When putting the conduit into the niche you should use a sealant such as Permatex or Plasto Joint Stick.

GROUNDING

Grounding of all pool components is essential and normally required.  Check your local building codes as they will vary from place to place.  Use an electrician for all electrical work.

BACKFILLING:

Backfill is done after the plumbing and should not contain clay and absolutely no large rocks. The bottom layer of backfill should be porous material to allow proper drainage away from the back side of pool walls. This layer of backfill should come up just above the plastic piping coming from the inlets.   Consider pressure testing your lines or wait until your filter is hooked up and you can test the liners before burying the lines.  I you have installed an AquaGenie you will only have one trench and the lines going to one location.

We recommend using pit sand or similar material for backfilling. 

Section 5                     COPING AND LINER:

The coping supplied with your pool is different than that in the video.   The video coping is a 2" single track and we are presently supplying a 3" dual track with one of the tracks used for fiber optic lighting.   The installation is basically the same with a few variations.   Use the video as a guide but follow the instructions in this manual.   There are two types of coping which are shown in the photographs:

1. Retainer strip coping 
2. Bull nose coping

ALUMINUM BULL NOSE COPING– is set upright on the front edge of the steel panel. It was designed to act as a form to pour concrete up to. Tape seam between coping and panel to prevent concrete from going in between.   If the coping is not already notched you can notch everything but the face of the coping every ¾" and it will bend around the corner of the pool. (See Fig.12).   

Pre-bent corners are supplied with 2' radius corner pools.   The inside corner on a square L is not supplied as it is not difficult to bend.   There are no pre-bent corners supplied on 4' radius pools as they are easy to bend.

There are coping stabilizers included with the coping kit.  They are used at each joint and every 4'.  They are used to stabilize the coping at the joint and can be used to push or pull the coping in place.  They are to be screwed to the wall.   As well, coping joiners are available.   They must be installed in the ends of the coping.

To cut the coping place the coping face up.   If you are using a power miter box (chop saw) use a carbide tip blade and at least 40 tooth blade - a 60 tooth blade is preferable. Put WD 40 on the area you are going to cut.    Putting the coping face up will prevent burring on the face as the burr will be on the inside.   

If installing the coping on a Grecian pool, cut the coping from the back but not all the way through to the front face of the coping.  It will then bend around the corner.

To install coping on the square L reverse corner remove every second tab at the back of the coping.  Gently put the coping into the corner.

Installation of Preformed Corner:   

Push the center of the corner snug to the pool wall. Secure the center of the corner with the self drilling screws. Install screws moving to the outside ends of the corner.

Begin installing straight pieces of coping on the ends and sides of pool. It will be necessary to cut the last piece of coping to fit on the ends and sides. Make sure that the ends of the coping are aligned with each other, secure the coping with self drilling screws at 8" intervals. Install coping braces crossing each joint of the coping and space the braces at 4' intervals.

SHAPED POOLS:

Begin installing coping at the step if the pool has a step. When the pool has no step begin installing on the largest radius. When you come to a reverse radius using pliers bend every other notched piece upwards around the reverse radius as per diagram.

FIBER OPTIC ROUGH-IN INSTALLATION: 

To install the conduit for fiber optic coping run a 1 ¼" conduit/pipe from the coping to the light source.   It should be attached to the wall so if the ground shifts you will still be able to feed the fiber optic cable through the conduit.   There are many ways to attach the conduit to the wall.   One way would be to drill 2 holes in the top of the wall and put 2 bolts or screws into the wall and then wire or tape the conduit to the bolts or screws so it cannot move.    We are supplying a small piece of 40 strand cable with each kit so you can see the size of cable that has to be run through the conduit. 

 The cable can be run in one side of the step and out the other.

 The cable is not meant to go around the step so if it cannot go into the coping on one side of the step and out the other then it should go under the step.  If you do this, keep in mind it should be put in a conduit.

 The back of the step is not made for the cable but it is possible to put a slot in the concrete at the back of the step so the cable can go around the step.   You will be able to gauge what is required when you see the enclosed cable sample.

 Keep in mind that the perimeter cable must be a continuous loop.   It goes from the illuminator to the pool, around the pool and then back to the illuminator.   The shorter the cable the brighter the light.   The illuminator should be at least 10' away from the pool unless it is behind a wall.  

 If you want to see what is involved to install fiber optic lighting please go to http://www.northwestwholesale.com/PDF-Documents.asp and click on the Hayward Fiber Optic Lighting Installation Manual.   It is a large document so it will take a while to load.   There is some good reading in fiber optic layout and installation in this manual.

Vinyl liners should be stored in areas with temperatures above 50 degrees F to prevent excessive shrinkage and permanent folds in the vinyl.   If the liner is to be installed in cool weather keep it in a warm place prior to installation.   Liners install easiest at temperature between 70 degrees F and 83 degrees F.

When installing a liner in temperatures of 65 degrees F or lower, store liner at 70 degrees F to 80 degrees F for at least 72 hours prior to installation.   When the bottom is finished, bring out the liner and drop it as quickly as possible.   Try to drop the liner in direct sunlight to help seat it properly.   Do not leave a boxed liner exposed to the elements.

TOOLS REQUIRED FOR LINER INSTALLATION:

Commercial vacuum (s), garden hose.
Screw drivers, straight broom.
Razor knife.
2 to 4 people.

Vinyl liner installation can be fast and easy.   Just follow these guidelines!

Before you begin installing the liner, ensure that the pool bottom is free of any stones, sticks and footprints that may damage the liner.   Use stone trowel to remove any rough edges from the bottom of the pool.   Clean the panels so there is no cement or debris on the panels.   

Use duct tape to tape all panel joints and, if available.

Use caulk to secure gaskets to the main drain and skimmer.

Ensure liner track is clean and free of any sand, concrete, etc.

Remove the liner from the box.   Place the liner in the deep end of the pool.   Carefully unfold the liner.   Have 2 people take the shallow end corners and pull the liner to the shallow end, keeping it away from any sharp edges.   AVOID DRAGGING THE LINER ACROSS THE BOTTOM OF THE POOL.   FOLLOW THE MANUFACTURERS INSTRUCTIONS.

Being careful not to stretch the liner bead excessively, take the top edge of the liner in the deep end, and start inserting the bead into the coping at the corners.    To view the bead, click on the following link:  standard liner bead   The exact corners of the liner must line up with the pool corners. Grasp the liner and pull it gently into place, moving toward center of the deep end wall. Then move toward the shallow end. Do not drag liner on bottom of pool floor.  If repositioning of slack is necessary you may carefully jump inside the pool in stocking feet and adjust liner so that there is an equal amount of slack at the three sides of the shallow end.   

IF ENTERING THE POOL REMOVE ALL SHARPE OBJECT FROM YOUR POCKETS.  

When the liner is square, continue snapping the bead into the track, being careful not to overstretch the liner bead.   Push the liner bead into the track completely to ensure proper locking.  The deep end may appear too small for the hole, but if the prepared hole is close to the given dimensions, it will stretch to shape without any wrinkles.    Insert the liner bead into the lower track.   On 3 track coping (2 bead tracks and a fiber optic cable track) the top bead track is for a vinyl cover.  If you do not intend to purchase a vinyl cover in the future you can install the liner into the top track.

After the liner bead is completely installed in liner track, adjust the liner in the pool corners, as required, to achieve a smooth, loose fit in the corners.   Do not stretch the liner tightly over inside corners.

When the liner is positioned correctly, remove a small area of the liner bead from the liner track and insert approximately 36" of vacuum hose behind the liner.   DO NOT ALLOW VACUUM HOSE TO TOUCH THE POOL BASE!   Use duct tape to tape the hose in place and seal the opening around the hose to create a vacuum behind the liner.   Seal the skimmer top with duct tape.   NOTE:   Larger pools may require 2 vacuums.

Turn on vacuum(s).   As suction starts to pull the liner down, continually adjust the fit by pulling the excess material on the bottom toward the base of the pool walls.   If you cannot get out all the wrinkles, shut off the vacuum(s), reposition the liner in the pool, turn the vacuum(s) back on, and start the process again.

THIS IS NOT NORMALLY NECESSARY:  If liner has excessive packaging wrinkles in shallow end, and won't keep its shape if water was put in, you can make a simple apparatus called a "T" hanger, which effectively keeps the liner in a pool-like shape but this is usually not necessary. (See Fig.14). Place cross shaft of the "T" on the liner in the corner between the panel and the bottom. Be sure there are no sharp splinters on any part of the apparatus. Hook a plastic bucket of water on a hook on the end of the shaft, with a cord tied to the hook, lower the "T" shaft and stake the cord to the lawn.

FIG. 14.

Turn the vacuum on to force the liner into position. It will take 15 to 20 minutes to draw the liner tight against the pool walls. Check for liner leaks.

Once 4 to 6 inches of water are in the hopper it is time to cut the main drain. The water pressure should be forcing the liner around each screw, thus showing the exact location of each screw. If the screws were not previously installed the holes would be difficult to find. Use a Phillips screwdriver in good condition and place it on top of the screws over the liner. Press downward punching an X mark on the liner. Force the liner over the screw and remove the screw. Carry out same procedure for the rest of the drain screws.

CAUTION:  DO NOT CUT THE MAIN DRAIN UNTIL THE LINER IS PROPERLY INSTALLED AND NO FURTHER ADJUSTMENTS ARE NECESSARY.   DO NOT PUT WATER INTO THE POOL UNTIL THE LINER IS PROPERLY FITTED INTO PLACE.

Install drain gasket and ring, with the 8 screws, being careful to put the screws in straight and tighten down firmly to prevent leaks. Cut out drain liner carefully with a sharp knife and install drain cover.

Using a standard garden hose, place the hose end in the hopper and start the water flow.   Once there is 6" of water in the hopper, the remainder of the pool can be filled from the garden hose or a water truck.   DO NOT ALLOW A STRONG STREAM OF WATER TO DIRECTLY HIT THE POOL BOTTOM.

Continue filling the pool.

The vacuum is normally shut off when you have 3 - 6" in the shallow end.    Wrinkles should be out of the shallow end before 1" of water covers the area.    CAUTION: WATER WILL NOT REMOVE WRINKLES.

When the water reaches 6" to 7" below the skimmer, inlets or light, cut the holes and install the faceplates.  The liner may not be right back against the steel panel, but the water pressure will force it back later.

Since these pool walls are self-supporting, it is not absolutely necessary that more backfilling be consistent with the rising water level above the inlets.  Water should be shut off 6" from the coping.  Do not tamp the backfill as excessive tamping can cause distortion in the walls.

GROUNDING THE POOL:

All pools and metal parts (lights, ladder anchors, etc.) should be grounded.   The requirements for grounding will be set by your local authorities.   They vary from region to region so it is best to check with the offices that issue your building permit.

BACKFILLING THE POOL:

USE ONLY NON-EXPANSIVE MATERIALS FOR BACKFILL. DO NOT USE COHESIVE (CLAY) MATERIALS.   Excavated materials can be used in low ground frost areas but we recommend a pit run sand.  The advantage of using pit run sand is that it is easier to work with if future repairs are required.  If your backfill material has large rocks or sharp rock it is advisable to cover your plumbing pipes with sand.   Be careful not to push large rocks on your plumbing pipes as you may crush them.  Do not tamp the back fill as you can bulge the walls.  Do not allow heavy machines ride right next to the pool on the backfill as the weight of the machine could put too much pressure on the pool wall and bow in the side.

CONCRETE DECK:

Ensure the coping clips and joiners are installed over the coping joints. Use duct tape to completely cover the face of all coping, to protect it from splashing concrete.

Concrete should be reinforced with either wire mesh or a fiber mesh additive (available from most concrete companies).

Concrete should be a minimum of 6" thick at the pool edge and taper down to about 3 1/2" on the outer edge.

For proper drainage, the deck should slope a minimum of 1/4" for every 1' of width.

Install ladder/handrail anchors, as required, when forming deck.    All rail goods and diving board jigs and the pool itself should be grounded (check electrical codes).

Ensure concrete completely fills the coping.

Ensure concrete completely fills the gap under the lip of the step to provide additional structural support.

Broom finish the concrete for a non-slip surface or apply other concrete toppings, such as cool deck.

Edge and groove expansion joints or use expansion joint material. Do not position expansion joints directly over the pool wall braces.

Use additional support (piers) down to undisturbed earth if you do not have deck bracing.

INSTALLING THE LADDER:

Assemble the ladder and put the wedge anchors on the ends of the ladder.    Wrap paper around the ladder from the wedge anchors up so you do not get concrete on the ladder.   Ensure the ladder is grounded.   Pour concrete and set ladder in place (wedge anchors go into the concrete).   Ensure the bumpers sit flat on the liner against the pool wall.

Ensure the ladder is level horizontally and vertically before pouring concrete.  The wall bumpers should be flat against the wall of the pool.  Wrap the bottom of the ladder so when the concrete is poured it will not splash on to the ladder.

ADDING CHEMICALS AND POOL CARE:

You usually super chlorinate the pool upon start-up, then stabilize, depending on the brand of chemicals you buy. Then you chlorinate as necessary, depending once again on brand of chemicals, pool use, severe rain, wind storms, etc. Such factors can affect chlorine residual and pH of pool water. In addition to following a consistent water program of chemical use, you should also regularly use a test to check chlorine and pH levels. Super chlorinate weekly according to outside temperatures and brand of chemicals. There is also a chemical available to retard evaporation and hold heat in your pool, cutting heating costs by 30% if you have a pool heater.    Ensure you keep your pool water in balance as it can effect the life of your liner.

For more information on liner care go to http://www.northwestwholesale.com/liner-care.asp 

POOLSIDE GARDENING TIPS 

Decide which views you wish to retain and which ones you wish to block out, keeping in mind the dimensions of the matured plants to ensure that you don't block desirable views.

To minimize the amount of debris that blows into the pool it may be helpful to keep in mind the direction of prevailing winds when deciding where to place the pool.

Low maintenance plantings such as vincas, petunias, dianthus, marigolds and verbenas are worth considering.   Other recommended plants are ornamental grasses, daylilies, coreopsis and sages.

Because flowering plants will attract bees you may wish to keep them to a minimum in the immediate pool area.

Container planting, both in pots and hanging baskets, works very well in pool areas.   Bear in mind though that they dry out quickly and need frequent watering.

Conifers and/or evergreens soften the look of a pool fence and add privacy to the area.   Vines such as clematis, morning glory or gourds can also be planted against the fence.

Chlorinated water is not good for plants and raised beds may be used to prevent splashing on them.

Indoor pool situation:  Although humidity may seem perfect for tropical plants, chlorinated air can be harmful to them.   The plants should be taken outside as soon as the weather is warm enough.

SWIMMING POOL WINTERIZING:

Because winterizing methods vary in each part of the country it is best to get a local pool company to do your first winterizing.   Watch what they do and then do the same the following year.

In areas subject to freezing temperatures, it is advisable to close the pool down for the winter. The following are a few tips to prevent frost damage to equipment and structure, and to ensure a minimum of cleaning in the spring.   

1. Vacuum pool thoroughly so that it is completely clean of all sedimentation, leaves and debris.
2. Backwash filter tank for at least 30 minutes, so that the sand bed is perfectly clean.
3. Lower water level to 2" below inlet openings in wall.
4. Add algaecide to remaining pool water according to pool size.
5. Close off return fittings by removing threaded ring and directional nozzle and inserting 1 ½" threaded plug.
6. Remove underwater light bulb and store on deck. (Remove screw from chrome plated ring holding beam in copper niche, disconnect wires in deck box, pull out unit).
7. Drain out filter and heater by removing drainage plugs (make sure there is no blockage at drain plug).
8. Remove cover lid from hair and lint strainer, and drain out water by removing plug at bottom of pump trap.
   NOTE: If pump motor is not in shelter, cover with tarpaulin or plastic sheet.
9. Remove basket, float valve plate and balancing valve from skimmer. Close trimmer valve, place burlap sacking in skimmer, holding floating wire in upright position and replace cover.
10. Set gate valve at approximately three-quarters maximum opening.
    NOTE: Some installations require no gate valves.
11. Set multi-port valve in "winterize" position.
12. Remove sight glass and gauges.

Link to Pool or Spa Plumbing Layout
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Link to Solar Heating Plumbing Layout
Link to Pool and Spa and Ozonator and Chemical Feeder Plumbing Layout 
Link to AquaGenie Layout
Fixing Wrinkles